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By Jenna Rennert, Kiana Murden, and Audrey Noble
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In this era of show-and-tell skin care that is 2023—when sharing an acupuncture facial session on Instagram is as common as an #OOTD—there’s a good chance you’ve heard of microneedling. The minimally invasive procedure, which involves inserting fine short needles into the skin, can help diminish the appearance of acne scars, wrinkles, and even some stretch marks when performed by a trained expert. And while the idea can sound slightly scary, there’s actually not much to be afraid of. Experts love microneedling and assure you that it’s really no big deal. Here, they break down everything you’ve ever wanted to know about the transformative treatment.
To begin, New York City-based dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Mary Stevenson, MD, clarifies the difference between at-home microneedling and the in-office procedure. “In general,” she says, “[at home methods] of microneedling are less effective.” In a doctor’s office, however, the treatment has been proven to help skin’s overall texture and stimulate collagen production. “The needles range from 0.5 to 2.5 millimeters and rotates over the skin from a pen-like device, which creates tiny wounds that breach the stratum corneum—the top-most layer of the skin—to reach the epidermis and deeper dermis,” she explains. “If we are able to create tiny controlled injuries, then we are able to promote collagen formation,” which in turn allows the skin to remain tighter and thicker as we age. The procedure is often paired with a topical application of platelet rich plasma, or PRP, which helps speed up healing.
“Microneedling can be used to help with a variety of concerns,” Stevenson explains. “The treatment can minimize pore size and improve skin quality and texture,” plus help reduce the appearance of acne scars, stretch marks, and even fine lines and wrinkles. Aesthetic nurse practitioner Anne Marie Fombu builds on this: “I always recommend microneedling for reducing the appearance of enlarged pores, fine lines, wrinkled “crepey” skin, mild scars (especially from acne or burns), hyperpigmentation and stretch marks.”
When done correctly, risks should be minimal. You may experience some redness and tenderness for a few days after treatment, but those side effects typically go away on their own. Especially for in-office treatments, it is important you see a well-trained licensed technician with experience to avoid any complications. Hadley King, MD, a New York City-based dermatologist, says that infection can occur if a practitioner overdoes it with the needle pressure creating bigger wounds than intended or if an at-home microneedling device isn’t properly cleaned.
King says that while this is safe for most, she wouldn’t recommend it for someone who has extremely sensitive skin as it might cause irritation. She also says to avoid this treatment or derma rolling at home on inflamed skin, cystic acne, and breakouts to avoid creating more damage.
Post-microneedling recovery is quite simple and if you get it as an in-office treatment, your dermatologist will outline instructions for any aftercare. These micro wounds should also heal fairly quickly, though you might not see immediate results until a few weeks later. King recommends applying a hyaluronic acid, growth factor, or peptide serum after so that the active ingredients can absorb into the skin and address the concerns you wanted to treat. Sunscreen use is also recommended to protect the skin.
To avoid irritation, adds you should not apply makeup on freshly microneedled skin and to take a break from products like retinol and alpha- and beta hydroxy acids until your skin is fully healed. You’ll also want to avoid any activity—swimming, intense workouts, and the like—where you might excessively sweat.
There are many at-home microneedling tools on the market which, over time, can have skin-brightening and tightening effects. But, Stevenson explains, “at-home devices do not go as deep as in-office procedures,” which makes them less effective.
Still, according to board-certified Dendy Engleman, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue, an at-home treatment could still be beneficial for milder concerns, especially to supplement in between in-office appointments. “While at-home microneedling is effective, especially with consistent use over time, the technique only works for mild superficial scars and lines—it doesn’t work miracles,” she says. “Since the needles on an at-home device are smaller and the treatments are milder than what is performed in-office, at-home microneedling can take several months to see results. However, it is a great practice to incorporate into your routine—staying consistent with it will pay off in the long run. It’s also a great way to supplement microneedling in between in-office appointments.”
“Yes,” Stevenson says, adding: “When used for the right considerations and in qualified hands, such as a board-certified dermatologist, it really works.” However, it’s not a one-stop-shop procedure. “It often requires a series of treatments, and in my own practice, I often use it in combination with other technologies to have the best possible improvement in things like acne scars and stretch marks.”
According to Fombu, the answer is yes. “Some people of color worry about the procedure because darker skin tones can be damaged more easily by any skin trauma,” she begins. “Having a pen-like device puncture your skin may be intimidating, but rest assured, only the superficial layer of your skin—the dermis—is being pierced. With that, these punctures are microscopic. They do not cut deep into the skin or create scarring. Microneedling is a safe, simple, and effective way to yield beautiful skin results.”
“Many patients find microneedling with PRP to feel like a little buzzing over their skin with perhaps a bit of sensitivity on the upper lip or forehead,” Stevenson explains. Most, however, “leave feeling like they had the best facial ever.” Afterward, patients may experience red skin and slight swelling. “By nighttime,” she says, “you will look back to normal or mildly pink, with minimal downtime.”
The number of microneedling treatments all depends on the specific area targeted. “For microneedling with PRP, I usually recommend a series of two to three treatments to begin with,” Stevenson says, adding she will space out every four weeks. “I want to get to a place where you feel great about your skin and then maintain it.”
While every office is different, prices for microneedling range from $350 (a small area) to $850 (the full face) a session with Stevenson at her New York City practice.
“Whether microneedling at home or with your dermatologist, the treatment can cause swelling and redness,” says Stef Rippenbaum, board-certified nurse practitioner at New York City wellness clinic Modern Age. “There are several ways to minimize side effects. Use only gentle products afterward that do not contain active ingredients such as AHA/BHA, retinol, or salicylic acids.” She continues that a gentle cleanser, hyaluronic acid, and nourishing moisturizer are ideal for recovery, recommending waiting 10 days to reintroduce retinoids into your regimen and always wearing SPF. “Additionally, avoid makeup for 24 hours post-treatment and try to avoid excessive heat for 2 days as well. Sweating, hot showers, saunas, and exercise are all not good ideas [during this period].”
“I recommend using an at-home microneedling device in the evening, in order to let the skin heal overnight and prevent any premature exposure to bacteria, pollutants, environmental damage, et cetera,” instructs Engelman. First, she’d cleanse with Cetaphil’s gentle formula, rinse, and pat dry. “Then use the microneedling device as directed—up and down, left to right. [Following], I like to apply SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum which has peptides and essential growth factors. This next-generation, skin rejuvenating formula improves the appearance of coarse wrinkles, fine lines, skin tone, and texture.” Finally, lock in moisture with a restorative moisturizer like one by Avène and CeraVe known to be gentle, yet effective.
Avène Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream
Read on to discover a selection of tools to test from the comfort of your home. Whether you’re complementing an in-office treatment or simply eager to experience its transformative benefits over time, don’t hesitate to check with your trusted dermatologist. Otherwise, roll on according to your chosen device’s instructions.
“I’m a fan of the Environ Cosmetic Gold Roll-CIT,” says Engelman. “I love that the needles are superfine (0.2mm) and made of surgical-grade steel, plus the tool itself is naturally antibacterial and beautiful to use.”
Rodan + Fields Redefine Amp MD System
Stanford-trained dermatologists Dr. Katie Rodan and Dr. Kathy Fields founded Rodan + Fields in 2000 to make achieving your best skin yet that much easier. Amongst its lineup of skin-care salves is this system which pairs a dermaroller with micro-exfoliating tips and its Renewing Serum to target skin firmness, texture, and fine lines.
FaceGym Faceshot Electric Microneedling Device
Give your manual microneedling device an electric upgrade with this option by FaceGym. From the makers of your favorite facial workout comes this treatment that pairs microneedling and glycolic acid-infused-serum ampoules to strengthen and refine skin to reveal a bright, smooth complexion.
ORA Microneedle Face Full Body Roller Kit
Ora’s microneedle kit is a great starter option, especially if you’re considering microneedling across the face, body, and lips. The set includes four interchangeable roller heads in various shapes and needle lengths ranging from 0.255 millimeter to 1.0 millimeter to best penetrate different areas of the body.
BeautyBio GloPRO Microneedling Regeneration Tool
What sets BeautyBio’s tool apart from the rest is how it pairs microneedling with LED red light therapy for well-rounded skin rejuvenation. With use three times per week, one might expect tightened pores, firm skin, and a youthful-looking complexion.
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